Mezzacorona Teroldego Rotaliano Riserva 2008

Mezzacorona Teroldego Rotaliano Riserve 2008

Mezzacorona Teroldego Rotaliano Riserva 2008

Teroldego is a Northern Italian grape from Trentino-Alto Adige. It is grown in Campo Rotaliano, a flood plain formed by the Adige and Noce rivers. The color is an intense red. The aroma starts as ripe red cherry and shortly becomes redolent of darker fruit, blackberry, plums and dark cherry. Oaky? Not too much, just right. Medium to full body, but not as full as you might anticipate from the color. Tannins are not overpowering. Quite enjoyable and pleasant, and seems to pair well with many full-bodied and beefy foods.

But. But kicks in after about 20 minutes. And what started off promising, like a young violinist whom you expect to perform at Carnegie Hall before too long, drops out and disappears from the musical scene. The flavors, textures and aromas here drop out and disappears from the wine glass scene.

It’s not a bad wine, actually. It’s disappointing only in the sense that you expect it to get better as it breathes. And there is where it falls down, especially if it’s the only wine during a meal. But you truly can enjoy this. Perhaps having just a glass with a delicious roast, with a cheese assortment (aged cheeses especially). Or perhaps as a part of a flight of interesting and unusual red grape varieties. Maybe with other Italian grapes such as Aglianico, Nero d’Avola and Primitivo. Or just with other medium deep red wines.

Excellent acidity, by the way, which is what is present (fortunately) in many Italian wines. It really does promise to be great. Drink it quick, because the promise fades as the flavors do. It’s definitely worth trying in another vintage to see if this perhaps was just quirky of the 2008. And the Teroldego grape should be sampled from other producers as well.

An additional note: This was tasted by the Cedar City Wine Club. Our club members range from younger and just starting to enjoy wine, to older and experienced tasters and wine collectors.

It’s interesting that everyone who submitted a tasting note (it was optional, though about 20 members did), all picked up on the acidity and the intense fruit. While some liked it, and some did not, these are definite characteristics that will come across to everyone.

My notes are both from the wine club tasting, plus from another bottle on a separate night. In both cases, the sense of initial intensity was followed by a falling off of flavors.

I wanted to give this wine at least 90 points, but I’ll kick it down a bit to 85. It ranges from $20 to $30 dollars, depending on where you buy it. Definitely worth $20. But $30? We’ll see.

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